I expect everyone is wondering whenever we’re going to post. Sorry to have kept you waiting so long but to some extent it has been beyond our control. As I start writing (MondaySept.3rd), we are in the Bushman Wilderness Trail camp having just returned from an evening drive and walk and we are having pre-dinner drinks. We have had a most unbelievable day today and even the resident South Africans who have been here on wilderness trails before are amazed at how much we have seen. But before I start on that, I must summarize the events since we left the Crown Club in Atlanta and got on our flight to Joburg..
After a long flight, we arrived in Joburg late at about 5.15 PM on Thursday. We were met by Ted & Marilyn Turner, who had graciously driven out to meet us and to guide us back to our hotel (Marilyn traveled in our rental car). As our rental car is a “manual” and of course SA drives on the left, the transition to driving in SA is not easy, especially on the busy roads of SA’s largest city. We slept well.
On Friday morning we did a little bit of shopping, after which Ted & Marilyn came and met us and once again Marilyn drove with me and this time Alison drove with Ted., back to the airport where we first picked up Vic & Carol from their flight from Port Elizabeth, and then later (their flight was late) all six of us met Chris & Linda from their flight from Washington. There was much excitement!
Back to the hotel again for a short while, then off to T&M’s home for a curry evening. We had a
grand time and the food was great. We ate outside on the patio. Pictures were taken, but not enough.
I had to drive home so I was very conscious of that and restrained myself admirably. I was very nervous driving a stick shift on the “wrong” side of the road in Joburg , particularly at night!
Saturday morning we drove over to T&M’s and the “boys” left in one car to go shopping for beer, wine, etc. for Kruger, while the “girls” went to Sandton City to shop. Marilyn dropped A&L back at the hotel and Chris & I drove back from T&M’s house to meet them. By 5.30 we were back at T&M’s and en route to Montecasino, a giant casino and theatre complex in the style of Caesar’s Palace (where you are “outside”, inside). We had a great meal and then went to see the stage production of “The Lion King”. It was wonderful. It was 11.30 by the time we got home and then we finished re-packing for the trip to Kruger. Although the hotel had Wi-Fi, it did not reach the third floor and I had to go down to the lobby to pickup or send email. There was no time to sort out a blog posting.
On Sunday morning, we loaded up the SUV and drove once more to Ted and Marilyn’s and by 8.45 AM we were on our way to Kruger Park. Very unfortunately Marilyn had an accident while on vacation in Morocco about a month ago, and ended up having to have knee surgery after she and Ted got back to Joburg. Consequently she had to forego the Kruger Park trip, and Ted’s younger sister, Dianne, joined our party instead. We were at the Malalane Gate by 1PM. We had told Chris and Linda not to expect to see much on the short 10Km drive to the “Berg en Dal” main camp – but we saw quite a lot including ground hornbills
, a poor lion sighting (low in the grass and not a good enough picture to post) a very good giraffe sighting – very close proximity, female kudus (still haven’t seen a male kudu), two warthogs and a couple of different elephants.
We checked in at the main camp (during which, the gentlemen checking us in told Vic: “Your wilderness walk was cancelled” – his idea a joke! – you should have seen the look on all of our faces!). As detailed in our second blog, we were picked up by the ranger & tracker in the bush
wagon (photo) and were on our way to the Bushman Wilderness Camp. The ensuing experience has been fantastic and I don’t really know how to start to put it all into words, or if I have enough time to do so.
Our ranger (Kenneth) and tracker (Bentu) are from Shangaan Tribe, mainly from Mozambique or Eastern African Region and they converse with each other in the Shangaan language. Bentu can spot game really well, and Vic formed the opinion that Kenneth is one of the most knowledgeable rangers/guides he has had. (This is Vic’s sixth wilderness trail).
On the way to the camp we saw a rhino in the distance and then it came running down the hill at the sound of our vehicle. It was a long way away and stopped after a short burst of speed and looked in our direction (they have very poor eyesight, but very good hearing (just like me! – not). It was an inkling of the good sightings to come. We arrived at the camp and sorted ourselves out into the four huts available. They are all the same and the word “rustic” is apt! (pictures). We then adjourned to the lapa had a few sundowners before supper was served (a delicious stew). 
On Monday morning we were awoken at 5.30 by the sound of water being poured into our enamel wash basin on a stand outside our hut (picture), followed by a knock on the door (and we’re supposed to be on vacation!). We dressed quickly and got to the lapa for coffee and rusks. For this particular walk we started from the camp at just after six, with the eight of us in single file behind Kenneth and Bentu. Within minutes we saw our first rhino and went on to have two separate rhino encounters and multiple rhino sightings. I say encounters rather than sightings because in each
case, we were walking directly into the path of a rhino and Kenneth signaled urgently for us to move sideways as quickly and silently as possible. On one occasion we actually climbed an outcrop of rocks on a small hill to be in a safe position. Despite the close proximity of the rhino, we never felt in any danger. 
After a long flight, we arrived in Joburg late at about 5.15 PM on Thursday. We were met by Ted & Marilyn Turner, who had graciously driven out to meet us and to guide us back to our hotel (Marilyn traveled in our rental car). As our rental car is a “manual” and of course SA drives on the left, the transition to driving in SA is not easy, especially on the busy roads of SA’s largest city. We slept well.
On Friday morning we did a little bit of shopping, after which Ted & Marilyn came and met us and once again Marilyn drove with me and this time Alison drove with Ted., back to the airport where we first picked up Vic & Carol from their flight from Port Elizabeth, and then later (their flight was late) all six of us met Chris & Linda from their flight from Washington. There was much excitement!
Back to the hotel again for a short while, then off to T&M’s home for a curry evening. We had a
grand time and the food was great. We ate outside on the patio. Pictures were taken, but not enough.I had to drive home so I was very conscious of that and restrained myself admirably. I was very nervous driving a stick shift on the “wrong” side of the road in Joburg , particularly at night!
Saturday morning we drove over to T&M’s and the “boys” left in one car to go shopping for beer, wine, etc. for Kruger, while the “girls” went to Sandton City to shop. Marilyn dropped A&L back at the hotel and Chris & I drove back from T&M’s house to meet them. By 5.30 we were back at T&M’s and en route to Montecasino, a giant casino and theatre complex in the style of Caesar’s Palace (where you are “outside”, inside). We had a great meal and then went to see the stage production of “The Lion King”. It was wonderful. It was 11.30 by the time we got home and then we finished re-packing for the trip to Kruger. Although the hotel had Wi-Fi, it did not reach the third floor and I had to go down to the lobby to pickup or send email. There was no time to sort out a blog posting.
On Sunday morning, we loaded up the SUV and drove once more to Ted and Marilyn’s and by 8.45 AM we were on our way to Kruger Park. Very unfortunately Marilyn had an accident while on vacation in Morocco about a month ago, and ended up having to have knee surgery after she and Ted got back to Joburg. Consequently she had to forego the Kruger Park trip, and Ted’s younger sister, Dianne, joined our party instead. We were at the Malalane Gate by 1PM. We had told Chris and Linda not to expect to see much on the short 10Km drive to the “Berg en Dal” main camp – but we saw quite a lot including ground hornbills
, a poor lion sighting (low in the grass and not a good enough picture to post) a very good giraffe sighting – very close proximity, female kudus (still haven’t seen a male kudu), two warthogs and a couple of different elephants.We checked in at the main camp (during which, the gentlemen checking us in told Vic: “Your wilderness walk was cancelled” – his idea a joke! – you should have seen the look on all of our faces!). As detailed in our second blog, we were picked up by the ranger & tracker in the bush
wagon (photo) and were on our way to the Bushman Wilderness Camp. The ensuing experience has been fantastic and I don’t really know how to start to put it all into words, or if I have enough time to do so.Our ranger (Kenneth) and tracker (Bentu) are from Shangaan Tribe, mainly from Mozambique or Eastern African Region and they converse with each other in the Shangaan language. Bentu can spot game really well, and Vic formed the opinion that Kenneth is one of the most knowledgeable rangers/guides he has had. (This is Vic’s sixth wilderness trail).
On the way to the camp we saw a rhino in the distance and then it came running down the hill at the sound of our vehicle. It was a long way away and stopped after a short burst of speed and looked in our direction (they have very poor eyesight, but very good hearing (just like me! – not). It was an inkling of the good sightings to come. We arrived at the camp and sorted ourselves out into the four huts available. They are all the same and the word “rustic” is apt! (pictures). We then adjourned to the lapa had a few sundowners before supper was served (a delicious stew). 
On Monday morning we were awoken at 5.30 by the sound of water being poured into our enamel wash basin on a stand outside our hut (picture), followed by a knock on the door (and we’re supposed to be on vacation!). We dressed quickly and got to the lapa for coffee and rusks. For this particular walk we started from the camp at just after six, with the eight of us in single file behind Kenneth and Bentu. Within minutes we saw our first rhino and went on to have two separate rhino encounters and multiple rhino sightings. I say encounters rather than sightings because in each
case, we were walking directly into the path of a rhino and Kenneth signaled urgently for us to move sideways as quickly and silently as possible. On one occasion we actually climbed an outcrop of rocks on a small hill to be in a safe position. Despite the close proximity of the rhino, we never felt in any danger. 
We also had a terrific giraffe sighting, which thrilled Linda as she has a passion for giraffes. We 
saw three of them at quite a distance and took pictures before walking toward them. However, they didn’t move so we stopped and took more pictures because we were sure they would move if we got any closer. We walked even closer and took more pictures and then they just moved a few yards off our path and we went by them. It was a great sighting.
saw three of them at quite a distance and took pictures before walking toward them. However, they didn’t move so we stopped and took more pictures because we were sure they would move if we got any closer. We walked even closer and took more pictures and then they just moved a few yards off our path and we went by them. It was a great sighting. 
We returned from the walk by 11.30 and had a late brunch of scrambled eggs, bacon, etc. (we also had a snack while walking on the trail).. Our camp has a “man made” waterhole just outside the perimeter fence (which was only about 4 foot high and not particularly substantial – Kenneth suggested it was to keep us in, not the animals out). We heard loud sounds of drinking at the waterhole and there at the waterhole was a female rhino with her calf (picture).After a siesta in the afternoon, we gathered together again for coffee/tea and then packed drinks into a cool box, loaded it and ourselves into the bush wagon and off we went for an evening drive/walk. This trip was less eventful in terms of sightings, but we ended on the banks of a river where we carried the cool box down to a large outcrop of rocks and we sat and watched the sun go down. It is extremely dry here at the moment, and the river is not flowing, there are only pools of water in various sections of the river bed. Although Sept 1st was the first day of spring, we are encountering temperatures in the 90’s F at midday. We did see another rhino and calf at the river at a long distance and we also had other rhino sightings on the drive. We returned to camp in the dark, had another lovely evening in the lapa and then to bed.
On Tuesday morning at 5.30 we started the process all over again!
Tuesday Sept 4th (posted Sept.14th!)
We left camp in the bush wagon at 6.00 AM and drove to the spot where we began our walk. We had another great rhino sighting on the drive. 
We saw san bushman paintings that were in the region of 15,000 years old! The walk was not as eventful as the Monday walk in terms of game seen, but was enjoyable.
We returned to the camp at late morning and while we were waiting for lunch I walked over to see if anything was happening at the water hole. There was nothing there, but I saw a rhino in the distance making his way through the bush towards the waterhole and began videoing.
The rhino got to the hole and began to drink. I was not aware of any issues with the rhino and after a few minutes, I stopped videoing and returned to the lapa for coffee. Later, Diane who was also watching the rhino came to tell us that the rhino was now IN the waterhole! We went back and I began videoing again. We thought the rhino was just cooling off, but then when it tried to leave the waterhole it fell sideways and screamed in what we assumed was pain. The rhino then lay there on his side with it’s two legs pawing at the air and was unable to 
get up. It was awful to see. Kenneth came to look and said that the rhino was badly burned on his back legs and rump from a recent fire and he thought the rhino was dying. He said that they might have to shoot it and he would have to call the section ranger to discuss the situation.
Kenneth was concerned that the rhino would die in the waterhole, which would make things very difficult. Meanwhile, the rhino was “moaning” so woefully that I could not continue to video. We heard that the section ranger was on his way. Meanwhile, the rhino had managed to right himself, and, after resting for a while, made a determined rush to get out of the waterhole. 
Unfortunately, he was facing the deep end and was unable to make it and ended up with his head resting on the side of the waterhole and his front legs
folded under him. He was exhausted and unable to move. We could hear his breathing quite clearly. We continued to watch and wait for the section ranger when suddenly, out the bush appeared two elephants approaching the waterhole to drink, one of which was massive. The massive elephant looked at the rhino in the waterhole but started to drink and spray himself down from the other end to where the rhino was resting his head.
The rhino then managed to turn himself around and now stood in the deep end of the waterhole facing the elephant drinking from the other end. He was snorting weakly, but was obviously very wary. The elephants drank from the waterhole one at a time and we surmised that they couldn’t understand why the rhino was in the water. In the distance we saw the section ranger’s pickup truck racing down the road towards our camp. 
He duly arrived and introduced himself to us (Rob). After examining the rhino with binoculars he confirmed that rhino was suffering from burns and that they may have to shoot it. He asked us not to photograph or video if that turned out to be the case. 
We were wondering how they were going to go out and look at the rhino while the elephants were there, but Rob and Kenneth just walked out of the back gate and started waving their arms (at the two elephants, they turned and faced them momentarily, but then turned away and started to walk back into the bush. The two rangers followed them for a few meters to ensure they were well out of the way so that they could turn their attention to the rhino.
We were all watching the rangers and the elephants and I was videoing this phase of the operation and when the rangers turned back to the waterhole and I swung back my video camera, the rhino was emerging from the shallow end of the waterhole! The rangers then started to walk toward the rhino and we all switched off our cameras fearing the worst. The rhino turned and looked at the two rangers as they walked toward him.
Rob raised his big gun and lined up his shot when suddenly the rhino turned and actually started to trot back into the bush. The rangers followed and went out of sight, however, we heard no shots and 15 minutes later, Rob got into his pickup truck and left and Kenneth told us that as the rhino seemed mobile, they would see how things went over the next couple of weeks. Although it would normally be difficult to find a particular rhino, they expect him to return to the waterhole again as it is an easy source of water for him while he is injured. We all hope and like to think he will survive. It was a dramatic experience for us all. 
As on Monday, we went out again at 4pm for an evening walk followed by “sundowners”. We were looking for the big cats but had no luck. We saw vultures in a tree and went to check if there was a kill nearby but didn’t find anything. We did disturb three elephants with three “baby” elephants with the bush wagon and
the one elephant “trumpeted” at us, but that was all. Back to camp for another delicious “camp fire” cooked meal and then off to bed. On Wednesday morning we were once again up early, but this time our time in the bush camp came to an end and we were off back to the main camp of Berg en Dal.
We saw san bushman paintings that were in the region of 15,000 years old! The walk was not as eventful as the Monday walk in terms of game seen, but was enjoyable.We returned to the camp at late morning and while we were waiting for lunch I walked over to see if anything was happening at the water hole. There was nothing there, but I saw a rhino in the distance making his way through the bush towards the waterhole and began videoing.
The rhino got to the hole and began to drink. I was not aware of any issues with the rhino and after a few minutes, I stopped videoing and returned to the lapa for coffee. Later, Diane who was also watching the rhino came to tell us that the rhino was now IN the waterhole! We went back and I began videoing again. We thought the rhino was just cooling off, but then when it tried to leave the waterhole it fell sideways and screamed in what we assumed was pain. The rhino then lay there on his side with it’s two legs pawing at the air and was unable to 
get up. It was awful to see. Kenneth came to look and said that the rhino was badly burned on his back legs and rump from a recent fire and he thought the rhino was dying. He said that they might have to shoot it and he would have to call the section ranger to discuss the situation.
Kenneth was concerned that the rhino would die in the waterhole, which would make things very difficult. Meanwhile, the rhino was “moaning” so woefully that I could not continue to video. We heard that the section ranger was on his way. Meanwhile, the rhino had managed to right himself, and, after resting for a while, made a determined rush to get out of the waterhole. 
Unfortunately, he was facing the deep end and was unable to make it and ended up with his head resting on the side of the waterhole and his front legsfolded under him. He was exhausted and unable to move. We could hear his breathing quite clearly. We continued to watch and wait for the section ranger when suddenly, out the bush appeared two elephants approaching the waterhole to drink, one of which was massive. The massive elephant looked at the rhino in the waterhole but started to drink and spray himself down from the other end to where the rhino was resting his head.
The rhino then managed to turn himself around and now stood in the deep end of the waterhole facing the elephant drinking from the other end. He was snorting weakly, but was obviously very wary. The elephants drank from the waterhole one at a time and we surmised that they couldn’t understand why the rhino was in the water. In the distance we saw the section ranger’s pickup truck racing down the road towards our camp. 
He duly arrived and introduced himself to us (Rob). After examining the rhino with binoculars he confirmed that rhino was suffering from burns and that they may have to shoot it. He asked us not to photograph or video if that turned out to be the case. 
We were wondering how they were going to go out and look at the rhino while the elephants were there, but Rob and Kenneth just walked out of the back gate and started waving their arms (at the two elephants, they turned and faced them momentarily, but then turned away and started to walk back into the bush. The two rangers followed them for a few meters to ensure they were well out of the way so that they could turn their attention to the rhino.
We were all watching the rangers and the elephants and I was videoing this phase of the operation and when the rangers turned back to the waterhole and I swung back my video camera, the rhino was emerging from the shallow end of the waterhole! The rangers then started to walk toward the rhino and we all switched off our cameras fearing the worst. The rhino turned and looked at the two rangers as they walked toward him.
Rob raised his big gun and lined up his shot when suddenly the rhino turned and actually started to trot back into the bush. The rangers followed and went out of sight, however, we heard no shots and 15 minutes later, Rob got into his pickup truck and left and Kenneth told us that as the rhino seemed mobile, they would see how things went over the next couple of weeks. Although it would normally be difficult to find a particular rhino, they expect him to return to the waterhole again as it is an easy source of water for him while he is injured. We all hope and like to think he will survive. It was a dramatic experience for us all. 
As on Monday, we went out again at 4pm for an evening walk followed by “sundowners”. We were looking for the big cats but had no luck. We saw vultures in a tree and went to check if there was a kill nearby but didn’t find anything. We did disturb three elephants with three “baby” elephants with the bush wagon and
the one elephant “trumpeted” at us, but that was all. Back to camp for another delicious “camp fire” cooked meal and then off to bed. On Wednesday morning we were once again up early, but this time our time in the bush camp came to an end and we were off back to the main camp of Berg en Dal.
4 comments:
fabulous, fabulous - so jealous! What fantastic rhino photos! Were they all white rhinos? It's hard to tell with the mom and baby - and I wondered if they might be the black rhino - baby is behind her? What are Chris and Linda's impressions? Are you taking video? Wish you had David's new camcorder with you with its 40x optical zoom!
Lots of love, Melanie, David and Indigo
P.S. Can't wait to hear more and about the wedding etc.
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